To give it to the kitten you will need a bottle made especially for puppies or a syringe without a needle or an eyedropper, as you can see in the images below.
Obviously you don’t have to force it, let it suck from the teat if you have a bottle and see that it succeeds, alternatively use the syringe squeezing the plunger slowly so that only drops come out that he can suck and that you don’t risk going sideways.
If you see that he can’t eat, go to the vet immediately to get the best advice.
Meals should be from 8 (for the smallest kittens, under 10-15 days) then a meal every 3 hours, to 6 a day for the kittens a little larger (therefore a meal every 4 hours) to be administered either day and night, without interruptions.
For the quantities you will find directions directly on the milk packs for kittens but indicatively the total daily quantity of milk to be administered is about one fifth of its weight in grams, for example, a kitten weighing 150 grams must suck about 30 grams of milk per day, divided by the number of meals, then about 18-19 grams per meal.
You will always need to keep a kitchen scale on hand to evaluate the weight gain of your fluff daily.
If you see that you do not gain weight for two consecutive days, please contact your vet again.
After each feeding, the baby should be stimulated to free the intestine and bladder as the mother would, the mother would lick it with the ripped tongue, you can use a cotton ball moistened with warm water and beaten oil (olive), with the well-squeezed wad make movements on the anogenital area just as if you were a mother cat from the urinary meatus towards the anus, so as not to transfer bacteria to the urethra, which can cause cystitis.
After the kitten is released, change the wad, still moistened in the same way and wrung out, to remove the feces.
While you make the toilets check that there are no fleas or ticks, sucking the blood can give him many problems as well as spreading in the environment where you keep it.
If you find any, contact your vet immediately to have them explain how to eliminate them, NEVER USE PESTICIDES FOR ADULT CATS OR, WORLDWIDE, FOR DOGS.
At around 26-28 days you can start weaning, first replacing a few meals with meat or fish or freeze-dried baby foods (to be dissolved in milk or water) and then slowly with specific wet food for puppies and then even croquettes, always specific for puppies.
When the kitten eats alone and walks around the house, you can introduce the sandbox and start teaching it to use it.
Since there is no mother to show them how to do it, you have to think about it: after meals take it and put it on the sandbox, put a little bit of its slightly buried feces in the sandbox so that it smells and understands that it is the right place to pee and poo.